Wool's Run as Leading Fibre Continues at Pitti Uomo for AW 2016/17

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Wool's Run as Leading Fibre for High Quality Fashion Continues at Pitti Uomo for AW 2016/17

Pitti Uomo Autumn Winter 2016 2017 Picture from The Trendspotter Pitti Uomo IWTO Wool News There’s so much wool about. That was the comment of buyers, who had good reason to wonder at its appearance in all sorts of items from retro jumpers, heritage sweaters, space age jerseys, tweed-coloured socks, chic techno multilayers, suave fedoras, Icelandic bobble hats, thick knitted scarves and diaphanous neckerchiefs, and moving also into shoes, sneakers, Gladstone bags, back-packs. In fact, all the accoutrements of the peacock generation. Examples were encountered daily in the nicely posed groups of exotically attired men and models grouped at the entrance to Pitti Immagine Uomo and avidly photographed by bloggers and press.

Wool was seen ranging from fine Merino to thick chunky knitted garments. Harris Tweed had its own exhibition area in the Central Pavilion, showing the natural hues of the hardy wool. In the same way, Irish knitwear makers Inis Meain presented their collections of Donegal and other updated original sweaters, which caught the mood for the search for value and quality with a dash of imagination from the increased numbers of buyers present.

Finishes to roughen, bulk up or smooth down wool gave many three-dimensional and textured surfaces with boiled looks, boucles and small coloured marls. All of these contributed to the season's rugged looks, a major look of the 2016/17 collections. Many were composed of different layers which could be attached by zips or poppers, Velcro or buttons to be taken off or added to and respond to any winter environment which the wearer encountered. There was invariably one of these layers more made of wool, whereby fine wool came nearest the body, thick tweedy looks on the outside with tweed wovens, sometimes fleecy lambswool inners. The areas of great invention were the woolly accessories combined with techno fabrics of all types.

Picture from The Trendspotter Pitti Uomo Autumn Winter 2016 Street Style IWTO Wool News Rugged looks called for thick, sometimes coarse wool, often blended with hairy fibres like mohair or strengthened by nylon or elastic fibres. The end result could be brushed or felted for extra bulk and effect. These were more often than not in natural greys, flecked, with dark grey, mid grey and white and black for a natural, hunting look. Woolly trapper shirts in checks formed part of the layers, sometimes used as lightweight jackets.

Colours echoing the darks and greys which have come to be the norm for winter wear were this time lifted by the use of bright scarlet, for both layers and outer jackets. Likewise there were bright yellows and greens used sparingly but effectively, incorporated in weaves for jackets and suits.

Heavy workwear fabrics or lightweight sportswear with technical features, had certificates and information on the fab, with wool benefiting from this marking of provenance and quality. At Pitti Uomo complete designed looks heavily featured wool in technical developments and weather sensitive fashion as well as tweeds and fine worsted blue suits-the front runners.

– Janet Prescott

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