Pitti Filati 82

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Where It All Starts:

Raw talent and corporate responsibility make an exciting Pitti Filati

Pitti Immagine Filati is the most fashion-centred yarn show. It is very much part of the current conversation.  Important Ideas are habitually discussed here, chief of which this year was sustainability, where there is now real commercial thrust for Summer 2019.

The growing unease about pollution and manmade problems is recognised internationally in most of the industry.  One of the major talking points of Pitti Filati 82 was the internationally verifiable claims for good practice now embedded in business philosophy, challenging old fashioned ideas of usage, plunder, and profit, with a commitment to conservation, re-use, renewal, and repair.

Many initiatives have been seen over the years at Pitti Filati, but the difference now is the wholehearted acceptance of a way of presenting to the public the values and quality represented by every area of the chain, starting with the fibre and yarn.  In particular it is about the relationship between natural fibres and the environment. Wool is a leading player with many examples.

Südwolle’ Superfine Merino wools (15.5-17.5 micron) are the key players in a line of exclusive, versatile yarns for high premium knitwear. The signature yarn in this family is Brisbane 2/60, 100% 17.5-micron Merino in a wide range of colours. Luxury blends of Merino, silk, cashmere, and cotton, available for very light crêpe yarns, also come in a weightless summer version. Südwolle has a commitment to sustainability and creativity and has developed a merino/hemp yarn.

The credentials of wool – grown naturally on animals reared outside with minimal intervention, is emphasised. Filpucci’s statement about eco-centric values applies to both eco-natural and eco-artificial yarns, with substantial investment into research and development which is a mark of the new season.  The company has been a leader in the area of responsibility.

BE.Mi.Va. has invented a woollen yarn which completely disperses in the sea, Botto Giuseppe presented Futuristic Fashion, knitwear fashioned with   Naturalis Fibra, the collection based on   the most natural ingredients, organic dyes and mulesing-free wools originating from Congi the sustainable certified Australian company with paddock rotation techniques. e.

The Pitti Filati Research area, Spazio Ricerca, grows in importance each season as the exhibition earns its reputation for invaluable research.  Designed by Angelo Figus and Nicola Miller the most original and directional examples of newest yarns were knitted into unicolour or bicolour simple fabrics, punctuated by artefacts, books, and statements of ideas in the wind. Twists, raised surfaces, unspun yarns and fibre mixed in an eclectic collection of influences including graphics and fabric surface painting.  There was a thread of reference to feminism and contemporary ideas about gender which was also woven into the themes.

The main design theme ‘Raw’ took ideas back to basics, showing intrinsic properties of fibres, fabrics, yarns, and the beauty of simple stitches in new configurations, influenced by nature and the idea of raw, unorganised data in computing.  Trend colours, including pale yellow, pink green, natural, white gold, were underplayed and sophisticated, many with a subtle shine.

Synthetic fibres provided stretch, knops and sparkle for Merino, raw silk, cashmere, and linen frequently twisted together. Deeper colours originated in Eastern cultures; bright saffron, pinks, gold and white, palettes associated with India at Cariaggi and the Far East in other collections, Filpucci brought forward very chic clean-looking yarns, with techno features, some of them simply knitted in grey viscose with loose loops for urban chic.  Knitted surfaces were embellished with loose threads, others with simple knit constructions with yarns of various gauges and colours to give exciting three-dimensional surfaces, ridges, contrasts, and simple elegant geometric patterns, including the incorporation of intricate flower themes.

Cariaggi showed a new collection called Ping Pong, combed yarn from Australian Merino in  77% wool, 23% silk which is very lightweight, with a crepey handle in the new 2019 pastels. Other yarns were mixed combinations including tiny  sequins,  which produced a visible yet subtle shimmer as it moved.

– Janet Prescott

Banner and homepage photo credit: AKAstudio

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