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Filo Celebrates Fifty Editions with 2020 Vision 

Filo was rightly proud of its celebration of 25 years and 50 editions of the Milan yarn show, September 26-27th It has grown every year and has become more important as the seasons for buying have changed with the business weather. It is the first view of the season and holds an interesting place in the textile calendar. British and European mills had sent design teams to Milan for sampling, looking for unusual designs and testing the mood for the new season.

On show were worsted wool and wool blend yarns for weaving, flat knitting and technical textiles.  Spring/Summer 2020 is heavily geared towards so-called summer fibre, there is more wool involved, as the understanding of wool ‘s advantages in summer becomes more widespread.  Many different fibres are blended for looks or performance in unusual combinations as at fancy spinners Ilaria.

Transparent fabrics are on trend.  As a result, blends of cotton and wool and other animal fibres are mixed with synthetics.  Pozzi Electa led with a wide variety of fibres and yarn blends like wool with cotton, Tencel, linen and various examples of recycled cotton- as the impetus towards eco products is strong.

 Yarn colours included yellow, turquoise, light blue and pale summer tones of white, also summer darks, blue, red etc.  Natural l fibre, undyed or looking undyed, contrasted with darker colours.  Shine and decoration are important, its dramatic effects seen on the Lurex stand,

Mills are working closely with suppliers to make bespoke colours and qualities, many holding large stocks of yarn, dyed and undyed like Servivi e Seta.

The large Suedwolle Group’s wool yarns for summer were both pure and blended with natural fibres, for example Gallipoli, a very fine wool with linen, and a mix with 33% wool, silk 34% and. linen 32%   with the emphasis on nature and natural qualities, ‘Going into nature but taking technology too’. Dyeing houses like Tintoria di Pollone specialising in knitting and finishing luxury fibres Including wool, often specialise in treated technical fabrics too destined for the automotive or protective clothing areas. They have developed digital printing technology for different blended materials.

 Tollegno 1900 wool specialists, emphasise research and development. At Filo they showed wool yarns with techno features, including fabric ‘shoe socks’, a new area in partnership made with Sandonini machines for versatile and resistant materials for footwear.  Research currently centres on reducing pilling for wool fibres in the technical and fashion areas, and innovative work on sustainability,

Zegna Baruffa presented new luxury wool collections in an all-natural collection.  Tuxedo is a sparkling thin yarn for evening, very fine micro wool and linen, resulting in yarn with good tactile qualities. Baruffa rooted in Biella, has a proud philosophy of localisation, specialisation and sustainability via traceability and monitoring.

 Colours, on the eye-catching displays conceived and displayed by Filo’s trend consultant Gianni Bologna included striking boards of yarn and fabric in uni- colour, originally shown at Milano Unica. Specific collections at the show of individual exhibitors combining yarns with sample fabrics, served as indispensable visual and tactile aids for buyers and press.

– Janet Prescott

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