Filo A/W 2020/21

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Filo Launches Sustainable Yarns Project Amid Abundance of Winter Wool Yarns for 2020/21 

February 2019's Filo, the International Exhibition of Yarns & Fibres, was a show with a message: Sustainable end products have to start with raw materials and yarns, and to that end, Filo's new "Sustainability Project” will, starting from the next edition, showcase products obtained from sustainable production processes.

“The great majority of our textile businesses are already implementing a variety of sustainable production processes, but this fact is not so commonly known," said Filo General Manager Paolo Monfermoso. "For this reason, we have decided to ask our exhibitors to get involved."  

“Sustainability as a virtuous process” was the topic theme of the opening event at the 51st edition of the exhibition, held  at the Palazzo delle Stelline in Milan on 27 and 28 February. 

The offer

The offer from Filo's 102 exhibitors was for Autumn/ Winter 2020/21 included a large amount of wool in the yarn collections. Wool was seen in 100% qualities or in blends, especially with some polyamide for shine. These were mainly destined for the weaving of apparel, and increasingly interiors. Knitwear and jersey yarns were also on display, particularly from wool spinners. Looks were conducive to wool choices; there were many examples of hairy yarns, with multiple twists and knops of various colours for multi-chrome and tweedy fabrics which continue to dominate.

Colour was a major feature. The colours chosen from exhibitors’ products assembled by Gianni Bologna, Textile Designer and Concept Manager of the famous Filo yarn boards, were contrasting palettes; jewel-coloured, reds and orange, blues and dark brown, and paler tones.

Gianni Bologna described his aim this season to highlight ´more permanent values’. Referring to the modern ambience of discord and disruption which are reflected  in ever- changing contrasts in textile choices, he said he wished to bring further meaning to the creation of textile products with  a  certain depth, and with aesthetic innovative contents.

Wool delivers strong focus on sustainability

 A focus on sustainability is already very strong among the exhibitors who specialise in wool, like Sudwolle and Zegna Baruffa, because of its intrinsic attributes of ecological.  Many of the companies have already formulated their approaches to sustainability, from use of raw materials, natural dyes, minimal chemicals, recycled yarns, or recuperated waste from manufacture. 

The Südwolle group delivers a strong focus on sustainable practices whether from Germany Italy Poland, Romania, Bulgaria, China and the USA it states.  Elements which have become one of the most important aspects of choice for buyers internationally.   The spinner of two brands, Polipeli and Gargantu is based in Prato, Italy and had an arresting collection of noble fibres in fun, bright trending colours and textures, shown woven in loose checks in 80 wool%/20 linen and 90% alpaca/10%linen.

Many companies which are using wool are finding their yarns in great demand for interiors use so they are developing thicker yarns, blends and robust weaves. This interest includes technical clothing and furnishings, where there is now greater demand for innovation and performance yarns. Wool spinners included Servizi E Seta who had Shetland Wool yarns among their worsted and semi-worsted wet spun and open-end Yarns; they displayed a fine 100% wool Merino mercerised 17.5micron on the trend board.

The scale of production of Xinao Textiles is impressive; it produces 10 million kgs worsted wool yarns for flat knitting, circular knitting and socks.  It has a vertical supply chain, breeding from their own farms in Australia for yarns spun in pure Merino wool and wool/nylon from 16.5 to 26.5 micron

Let it shine

 Shine is an almost constant element in both summer and winter collections for zingy fashion and also more subdued collections.  Zegna Baruffa, with Baruffa specialising in knitwear, with classic and fancy yarns including Cashwool, Chiavazza with worsted yarns, and Botto Poala with fine counts. The brands here operating   at the very luxury end of the market showing 83%Merino 9 polyamide and 8 per cent metallised yarn as well as a new yarn with 67%Merino/33%polyamide, and a wool quality called Tuxedo with grey, gold and silver fibre for sophisticated glimmer.  Most of these quality exhibitors with shiny yarns using Lurex with new colours and different degrees of shine which were shown by the Lurex Company in satin woven with some of the jewel Lurex colours of the season.

 A new direction pointed to wool being used for thicker but still light yarns, some with long hairy looks and brushed effects.  The contrast was with also heavier but still soft wools woven for sculptural relief surfaces. Described as ‘more primitive but elegant,’ for men’s and for elegant womenswear looks

Wool Spinners Fil-3 put the slogan ‘Wool is Back’ on the cover of the Filo catalogue - a good augury from the trade.

– Janet Prescott


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