Wool for All Seasons At Milano Unica

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Wool for All Seasons at Milano Unica 

Wool continued to be present in the spring/summer collections on show for 2017 spring summer, in 100 per cent qualities as well as in blends with other summer fibres. Wool twisted or blended with silk, linen or cashmere, gave a light and often shiny appearance which caught the mood in both men’s and women’s collections,  while often one saw wool  in warp or weft as well as  intimate  blends.  

Wool yarn Green

Colours for the summer centred around blue in all its shades, from grey/blue to a bright sky blue which gave an upbeat look to sometimes restrained men’s collections. Red and pink also appeared as an accent colour.

Unusual  ‘ingredients’ were sought out, small amounts of sparkle yarn for instance, or triple blends of wool with other plant or animal fibres. Ingredient marketing is an increasingly popular way to describe the increased information offered to the end user. The weights were light for summer weather, but there were many slightly weightier fabrics destined to be made up into unlined summer jackets, or half lined versions.

Tropical beige and cream for micro patterned worsted suitings constituted an elegant summer look while old-fashioned blazer stripes or small grid-like squares were inspired by extensive archive trawling in old established mills.

Crispier feeling fabrics were achieved by linen or cotton partners, sometimes tightly woven.  There was also summer knitwear with wool, some loosely knitted blends sweaters others in very fine lambswool. With the current wish to identify where items originate it is more common to hear where certain wool fabrics come from:  South America,, New Zealand, South Africa Australia or Britain provenance is a key factor,

Italian weaver Angelico of Biella completed the purchase of British company Marling and Evans, a name resonant with English textile history. Angelico reports genuine interest shown in local woollen fabrics created from British sheep in a large range natural colours, showing almost infinite variations on grey, white, stone and brown shades, which have the advantage of being contemporary and heritage at the same time.Angelico Biella Fabric Blue

Summer wool was incorporated into various patented outerwear systems against bad weather. These have been developed after research into creating technical layers of fabrics. They optimise various fabrics’ thermal qualities and water repellence.  Wool is identified as a technical fibre with unique thermo-regulating  properties to take its place with more conventional performance fibres.

Womenswear fabrics in the Moda In fashion area, generally used thicker wool as a base for highly decorated looks, in various weights, stitches and colours, further embellished with ribbons and lustrous yarns creating volume and a highly decorated look.

Here as in the Idea Biella classic suitings area, the introduction of more choice and texture into summer ranges is establishing wool as an all season commodity.

–        Janet Prescott

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