Wool's Summer Role Confirmed at Premiere Vision for SS2017

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Wool's Summer Role Confirmed at Premiere Vision for SS2017

Picture from VOGUE Street Style Paris Fashion Week by Photographer Dan Roberts Premiere Vision sparkled with life as a bright and cheerful ambience set the scene for SS 2017 and it confirmed the summer role for wool. There is a lot of specialist menswear fabric at the Paris exhibition, despite the preponderance of womenswear fabric companies. This includes particularly high class tailored fabrics from Europe - Italy, the UK, France, and also Egypt, India and Turkey, China and beyond, most of which is based around wool. It was interesting that wool features increasingly well in the summer mix, often  branded  as Cool Wool for suits, sometimes on its own, often mixed with cotton, linen, cashmere or with a touch of silk. It is lightweight, cool and relaxed.

The colourful nature of Premiere Vision is always helped by the amount of womenswear fabrics shown at the same time, and giving the overview of the season. Large, graphic prints, some of them like giant canvases used for coats or dresses, bright knitwear, much of that predominantly fine wool, with geometric design motifs in simple shapes in light soft, fabrics.

Knitwear Solutions is dedicated to sourcing from knitwear specialists who are the logical accessory to the fabric producers. The trend area there included fine summer wool interpreted alongside traditional fibres like cotton and linen, some in geometrically shaped sweaters showing off slubs, interesting surfaces and three dimensional, textured looks as well as loosely knit smooth versions.  Fine, lightweight wool was also found knitted in semi-transparent striped jerseys on the specialist stands like the French Textiles Federation, the characteristic jersey being light, monochrome, and frothy or smooth striped and featherweight.

Colours for suitings ranged from the creams and navies of the summer to warmer brick and pink tones, for overchecks and small slubs on Donegal types. Blazer stripes, a speciality of the British mills were also interpreted in versions by Italian designers, so that navy grounds had gold, green or sometimes orange stripes with various widths. Gingham checks on cotton/wool jacketings, larger scale decorations and pinstriped lightweight worsted summer jackets gave a new look to the more formal area from international mills ensuring a good place for the wool content.

Jacketings in fine worsteds were designed  for  the burgeoning market for leading women at the top of companies alongside fashion beribboned and mixed knoppy linen with fine wool for a dressed up, 1950s dolce vita effect.

 

A new partnership between Tencel and Merino aimed at sports and leisure wear was announced at PV, showing that wool is valued as a high class ingredient adding value for high performing blends which complement each other. The target is high value markets like Europe, where wool’s climate control qualities next to the skin are well known, partnering well with the Lenzing’s fibre.

Wool blended with silk gave a fashionable sheen, often interpreted in blue blazerings with large windowpane checks. Jackets for spring summer are quite ‘loud’ in many cases, designed to be worn with blue jeans as well as plain trousers, and many looking as if they have been influenced by golf wear, another growing  and lucrative area of sportswear.

The Woolmark stand had a selection of ornate selvedges on show, emphasising the craftsmanship and prestige which wool can call on while at the same time the performance features associated with the fibre were emphasised by many of the mills at Premiere Vision.

These centred around wool as a sustainable animal fibre, infinitely renewable, non toxic, soft, easily coloured and blended with other fibres, giving them a three dimensional look and the qualities such as easy care, non iron, and particularly important in this season, with coolness for summer, but warmth when the temperature cools. But above all, wool is increasingly seen as an upmarket fibre fully accepted for all seasons.  

- Janet Prescott

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