Filo Milan

You are here

Colour, pattern, texture: Filo 2019

Colourful yarns and summer wool are on offer for 2019, as the craze for colour, pattern and texture continues, says Janet Prescott

Filo Yarns in Milan has a business-like but convivial ambience; it took place at the end of September in the grand surroundings of the Centro Stelline. This year participation was up by 10 per cent, mainly Italian spinners, but others from countries including Turkey, Greece, Switzerland, Poland and Portugal, and visitors increased too.

 Filo’s quality of expert specialisation draws in international designers and technical stylists who look for specific yarns and novelties. There is enough space for interaction with customers: these include big chains, designer labels and individual high-profile brands.

The Circular Economy was a lynchpin of the 48th edition of Filo, and ICE, the Italian trade government agency held a symposium of industry leaders, to discuss principles and developments.  It underlined the importance to the textile trade of initiatives on sustainability and latest moves to lessen the impact of manufacturing by planning and some re-use of materials.

Natural fibres like wool are high up on the list for positive evidence of provenance, or origin, and of having fewer chemicals involved in production. There is a strong feeling that eco approaches and the whole story of the circular economy start at fibre and yarn stage, very important for retailers seeking to prove the provenance and production life of their garments to the end customer.

Fashion fabric has become more complicated, to fulfil the current craze for colour, pattern, and texture. Many yarns had bouclés, slubs, twists and stretch. A contrast look sought a flatter, crisper yarn handle for plainer fabrics.

Pure wool yarns for summer are now becoming a regular choice in some areas. Many of the exhibiting Italian mills were from Biella, wool-based, adept at making airy summer yarn in lightweight Merino. Spinning technology means that blends can be more complex.  This season wool yarn was frequently twisted or blended with man-made fibre for specific reasons; appearance, glitter or shine, a different handle or to provide extra resilience such as crunchy looks or soft drape, also teamed up with alpaca, linen, and silk - the conjunction of luxury.

Zegna Baruffa presented all wool yarns for weaving, a full range of special twists and fancies ideal for fashionable 3D textures or wavy and rippled surfaces, to enhance lightness. Very fine wool yarns were used, ‘lightweight with tactile and aesthetic features alternating with cordonettes, mouliné, three ply - slightly elasticized as in the Donegal quality, or frisé - a soft silk mousse to highlight reliefs and blurred effects ’explained Zegna Baruffa's Paola Rossi.   The rustic-chic look -  the disturbing of classic elements, was achieved by yarns to make fabrics with imperfect surfaces or popular denim looks.

Washable fibres, including Superwash wool were at a premium, since the advent of light colours and expectations of easycare become more urgent.  Functional and technical yarns, too, with branded performance yarns mixing with high quality natural fibres were blended and twisted together. Wool with linen was suggested as an elegant solution to summer dressing for both knits and wovens, summer fashion at the high level of the market.   

Colours were light, bright and clear, looking summery, including natural tones of wool and plant fibres. There were creams and floral colours in pink and pale blue, pale lemon and green, as well as brighter blue tones, but sometimes made smudgy by raising the surface of the yarn, with a painterly look, like watercolour.    In contrast, a raft of yarns and fabric in dark navy, grey and speckled black made for an edgy, urban look, which appeals every season. 

 

Find a laboratory near you

IWTO Newsletter

Always stay up to date on IWTO news and updates. Subscribe to the newsletter!