Technical

Wool without chrome dyes

The European REACH legislation puts increasingly serious pressure on wool dyers who still use chrome dyes. The replacement of this outdated dyeing technique is fully in line with IWTO’s slogan 'Sustainability, Guaranteed by Wool'.

Huntsman Textile Effects, Associate Member of IWTO, is the selected partner to support this initiative with their chrome replacement concept.

REACH (Registration Evaluation Authorisation and Restrictions of CHemicals) was published as a regulation on December 30th 2006, came into force on June 1st 2007 and has one key central aim: to protect human health and the environment from the risks arising from the use of chemicals. The scope of REACH is really extensive and impacts the entire supply chain from product design and development through to its recycling, re-use and disposal.

Within the REACH legislation some chemicals are labeled as Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC), one of the criteria being scientific evidence of probable serious effects to human health or the environment. Although REACH is a European regulation, most major retailers even the non-European ones are now including SVHCs in their own Restricted Substance Lists (RSL), to ensure that SVHCs are not present in articles and goods. The health risk for workers exposed to SVHC is not in line with the ethical values of the brands and therefore suppliers are seriously scrutinized even in cases where the concentration limits are not reached. The commercial pressure is steadily growing and having a greater impact than compliance. This was presented during 80th IWTO Congress - Hangzhou, China 2011:

http://www.iwto.org/uploaded/events/2011_hangzhou/Gruener_Hangzhou_ENGLISH-final_26.04.pdf

This has a serious impact on the wool dyeing industry as chrome dyes have traditionally been the standard for wool dyeing, and potassium dichromate, the mordant used in the after treatment of chromes dyes is listed as an SVHC. Over 12 years ago Huntsman Textile Effects made a move away from this hazardous dyeing method with innovative technology that allowed replacement of chrome dyes with sustainable products, and a new range of metal-free reactive dyes for wool, LANASOL® CE, first appeared on the market. These dyes have very good fiber levelness, high fastness, including outstanding wet fastness, and excellent reproducibility. Furthermore, the dyes ensure that the wool fiber is fully preserved and leave the finished article with a pleasant handle. The range has been designed for exhaust dyeing of untreated, chlorinated and machine-washable wool at all processing stages, especially loose stock, slubbing and yarn. The dyes are also suitable for dyeing silk, for vigoureux printing, continuous dyeing and direct printing and for colored discharge printing of wool.

An industry size test proved that the LANASOL® CE range outperformed traditional chrome dyes right across the board – at every level of dyeing and processing.

This has been presented 79th IWTO Congress - Paris/Rambouillet: http://www.iwto.org/uploaded/events/2010_paris/presentations/supply/CommTechForum-2-Franz_Gruener-Replacement_of_Chrome_dyes-May_2010.pdf

Adhering to REACH means serious commitment to the industry as meeting these targets requires sizeable investments especially for a company such as Huntsman. We have a long tradition in the textile industry and aim to stay in business for the long haul. The CE suffix in the LANASOL® CE range was coined specifically to signify: CE = Concern for the Environment, CE = Chrome Exchange, and last but not least importantly, CE = Cost Effectiveness. Huntsman Textile Effects with its leading global position has a clear commitment to meet and exceed the need of our wool customers. We understand their need for reliable supply, safe processes, consistent product quality and low recipe costs. We have the products and processes to meet these needs. These help minimize damage and subsequent waste throughout the entire production chain of the high quality wools and fine animal hairs. With our extensive network we are in a position to provide a reliable supply of high quality products which ensure right first time performance through onsite technical support. And finally, we have a long term focus aimed at bringing market driven innovation at low/no processing risk and maintaining high quality.

LANASOL® CE Chrome Free Dyes from Huntsman Textile Effects prove that dyeing wool can be done safely and conform to the stringent regulations that will soon be in effect with REACH.